A Korea you'll understand.

Joseon Dynasty

Gyeongbokgung: The Palace That Died Twice

Joseon's seat — and Korea's most-rebuilt landmark

Korea's most-photographed palace, with the stories that change how you see it. The chimneys disguised as garden art. The first electric light here, and the royal assassination that followed. The colonial headquarters torn down to restore the central axis.

• How the queen's chimneys were disguised as garden art
• The first electric light in Korea — and the royal assassination that followed
• Why the colonial headquarters had to come down to recover the palace's central axis